Dublin Diet

Here's the story of my day in food...

8 a.m. - Breakfast at our hostel (giant roll with butter and jam, coffee, juice)
10 a.m. - Machiatto at Nude (ordered because Tourist Info was closed until 10:30 in honor of a Bank Holiday we didn't know existed)
11:30 a.m. - Galaxy Hazelnut candy bar (eaten while enjoying fantastic Irish scenery on the bus on the way to Glendalough)
1 p.m. - Fried chicken sandwich at the "kiosk" in Glendalough Park
4 p.m. - Ice cream cone after hike in the park
8:30 p.m. - Pint of Guinness at the Guinness factory, half of a Nature Valley peanut butter granola bar (the last one from the stash I brought with me)
10:30 p.m. - Hunky Dorys sour cream and cheese chips and Galaxy caramel bar in our hostel bedroom (consumed after we realized all restaurants and grocery stores within blocks were closed)

A day with Becca and Stacie in Dublin and vicinity - PRICELESS!

Of Airports, Hostels, and Dublin

Yesterday was a day full of many adventures. Picture the following scene: me lugging my mega suitcase and laptop bag stuffed with books through the streets of London, the Tube, the Gatwick Express, and eventually the airport - only to discover my bag weighed too much for our flight. Yes, I became THAT person, trying to pull out the heavy stuff and carry it by hand. Lesson learned: suitcase packed with 5 weeks worth of stuff minus black licorice bag, sneakers, toiletries, and blazer equals acceptable for Ryan Air :) I'm now trying to figure out what I can get rid of before our flight to Edinburgh on Tuesday.

Now picture 3 very tired, very American girls arriving in Dublin at about 10:30 p.m., trying to figure out what bus to take, being told by two people that our hostel was in "not the best area." It was a bit nervewracking, but we made it. And it's really not bad at all. We have a room for just the 3 of us, and it's clean and comfortable. And we all feel very safe. For me, it's really fun to actually have the hostel experience - more communal in feel than a hotel setting. In general, the city here feels very young. Apparently, over 50% of Dublin's residents are under 30.

Anyways, today we took a hop-on, hop-off tour of Dublin and we visited the Killmainham Gaol, learning lots about Irish history and also saw the Book of Kells at Trinity College. As you can see, below we also enjoyed a traditional Irish dinner of cider and Dublin Coddle (potatoes, sausage and bacon in a tasty sauce). Yum!

The Last Phase Begins


Tonight is my last night in London. I spent the morning in Notting Hill, wandering through the market and enjoying the quaint neighborhoods. Then I met Stacie and Becca and we enjoyed a full day - British Museum, National Portrait Gallery, Trafalgar Square, and Tower Bridge followed by a dinner of fish, chips, and cider.

Tomorrow, I'll say goodbye to my GMU friends and then spend the day with Stacie and Becca in the city - visiting Westminster Abbey and as many other sites as we can squeeze in. Then in the evening, we fly to Dublin for 3 days, followed by 5 days in Edinburgh. I'm a bit nervous about the flights and the hostels and dragging my luggage around everywhere, but I'm excited too...looking forward to seeing the countryside and especially to Edinburgh, which everyone says is absolutely amazing.

I'm not sure if I'll have e-mail access this coming week, but I'll try to squeeze in a post or two at an internet cafe somewhere. And if not, I'll make sure to update when I return to the US next Sunday. I miss you all and can't wait to see you then - if anyone wants to meet me at Baja Fresh, that's the first stop on my list! :)

Canterbury

Chaucer had prepared me for the streets crowded with modern pilgrims, for the stench of unwashed tourists, for the Starbuck's adjoining the cathedral gate. After all, his tales are known for their mingling of the bawdy and the sacred. I was expecting no better.

I did not know that I would gasp upon my first view of the Nave, awed by the narrow rows of columns stretching hundreds of feet up to the peaked arches, majestic tendons of white stone. I did not know that I would find tears here, that I would be silenced for a full two hours, that I would long to raise my hands and sing.

I did not know that I would kneel at the Chapel of the Saints and Martyrs, knees on the hard wooden bench, eyes transfixed by fragile patterns of colored glass, and find my heart swept upward in prayer for the persecuted church.

Had I known, I would've come as a pilgrim, weary with the journey, rich with expectation of the glory awaiting me. Instead, I leave a pilgrim, aware of how far I still am from home, full of fresh hope for the day my voice will join with those of Augustine and Beckett and thousands more in a song of worship that will fill even these grand spaces, resonating from the depths of the crypt to the distant peak of the bell tower, spilling outward and upward in never-ending praise.

Touring London

London Skyline - as viewed from our double decker bus :)

Me in Trafalgar Square

Well, I've been in London for three days now, and I've been able to see a lot - Hyde Park, Oxford Circus, Trafalgar Square (including a lunchtime concert at St. Martin in the Fields), a double-decker bus tour of all the major sites, a river cruise on the Thames (including a stop at Greenwich), the British Museum (including the Rosetta Stone), and the Tower of London (including the crown jewels). The weather's been beautiful - cool, breezy, and sunny, and the city's been less crowded and chaotic than I'd expected. That being said, I can't claim to love London. I think it comes down to the fact that I'm just not a city person, though it is nice to feel like I can handle one and make my way around in it. And the history everywhere is pretty amazing.

A few favorite moments so far:

1. Hyde Park - We visited Speaker's Corner on Sunday, an area reserved for people to get up on their soapboxes - literally! - and yell and scream about their political and religious beliefs. It was pretty crazy. The guy with the biggest crowd was talking about the Lebanon situation, and the atmosphere was definitely tense.

2. The Coffee Cellar in Greenwich - This place advertises the best coffee in Greenwich, but we should have known better when they accosted me on the street, eagerly asking if we wanted coffee. When we decided we did, we were led downstairs into a musty basement with these crazy, multi-colored chairs and intense incense burning! The guy serving us, who had creamer drops on his mustache, couldn't remember what cakes they had, so he literally brought down these boxes from the freezer and laid them all out in front of us so we could choose. We were laughing to the point of tears.

3. The Tower of London - Amazing to see this place I've heard so much about - and to think of all the history that has happened there. The buildings were beautiful too.

Tomorrow a group of us is taking a day trip to Canterbury, and then on Thursday, we're going to Bath, and then Friday, Stacie and Becca arrive...I'm excited!

In London!

I just wanted to write a quick post and let everyone know that we made it safely to London and are settled into our flats. It worked out so that I could stay with Heidi, Kellie, and Kimberly and Heidi and Kellie's guests in a 3 bedroom flat with living room, kitchen, and 2 bathrooms. It's actually pretty nice and it's in a quiet, residential neighborhood, so we all slept better last night than we ever did in our more noisy location in Cambridge. The other bonus is that there's a wireless network available, which is a WONDERFUL SURPRISE. So keep on e-mailing...I'll be able to respond as long as I'm here (through Saturday!)

Yesterday, we spent the afternoon settling in - grocery shopping, unpacking, etc. Then, last night we went out for dinner and drinks since it was Kevin's last night in the UK. He left this morning, and now we're in the process of coming up with a plan for the day - I think we're going to check out the Hyde Park area. I'll write more soon...

The End of a Thing

"Better is the end of a thing than its beginning." - Ecclesiastes 7:8

Tomorrow morning, I leave the quiet streets of Cambridge for the bustle of London, the world of the academic for the world of the commercial...

So tonight, after our farewell dinner and a walk and a last drink with the crew, I spent some time wandering around the college and the city alone, taking some pictures, trying to process what exactly this three weeks in Cambridge has meant to me...


And so I sit, back to King's College, facing Trumpington street, thinking. During the day, this street is packed with tourists, but it's quiet now, or at least it seems that way at first. I pull my knees up to my chest and rest my head against the wall behind me, enjoying the coolness of the stone on my neck, and I notice the strains of violin music drifting from the red-awninged cafe across the street. There are voices too - the soothing whispers of hand-holding couples, the boisterous laughs of mini-skirt-clad teenage girls and the boys who are trying to impress them.

What is it that I have learned here? I ask myself. Why do I feel connected to this place? The answer comes slowly, in fragments. I have learned, I realize, that I am at home among academics, that on some level I fit in the university world. I've learned that maybe I could live in another country and be okay with it, even like it. I've been reminded that much of my joy in life comes from sharing it - all of it - with other people. And through it all, I've become more convinced, deep in my soul, that hope lies not in ideas or intelligence or people - but in Jesus.

And so, I realize, for all these reasons, Cambridge has been a good place for me, one which is certainly not home, and yet one - which on another level - very much is.

Final Week

I haven't posted much this week because the pressure of the paper deadline looming over all of us has reduced the number of "fun" activities we've been able to do. My essay is on Shakespeare's sonnets and how they are a form of tragicomedy, one in which the poet presents and never resolves two conflicted selves. My conclusion is that the sonnets are then on one level disatisfying because they never reach an intellectual truth and on another level successful becuase they acurately capture the speaker's emotional truth. Hopefully, when I meet with my professor from GMU today to go over the draft, she'll like it - and I'll just have to do some touching up before tomorrow's deadline.

Honestly though, I've enjoyed this week a lot too, even with its more academic focus. It's nice because everyone's busy thinking and writing. The last few nights the crew of us has gone to the computer lab - which, conveniently also is one of the few air conditioned places in Cambridge - to work for a few hours, and then afterwards, we'll stop at a pub for a drink and some conversation on the way home.

I know I've said it before, but I really do just love the relational nature of things here, how all aspects of life - studying, eating, socializing - are shared with the same group of people. It makes even the academic work more meaningful as it's done in a context of community, rather than one of isolation. Before coming here, I'd conceived of this summer as a sort of independent and perhaps lonely adventure, but ironically, it's become the most communal experience I've had in a long time.

Unexpected Adventure

Well, I said in my post this morning that I was going to write my sonnets paper this afternoon, but it didn't exactly turn out that way. On my way to the computer lab, I felt like I had dirt in my eye, which with hard contacts is a not too rare occurence. So I took my contacts out, thinking that'd make it better, but the feeling persisted. I tried eye drops, flushing my eye with water, cold compresses, and nothing helped.

So I walked to the shopping area and went into this place that said Optical and Dental. It was kind of like a Lens Crafters, and the guy there looked at my eye and said it might be a blister on the cornea or something. He said I needed to go to the hospital. At this point, I felt very alone and wanted to cry, but when I started to, I discovered that made the pain worse. So I decided to be brave instead :)

I went back to my room to get some stuff together before leaving for the bus station. All of my girlfriends were out, and I didn't know where our faculty supervisor's room was, so I knocked on my friend Kevin's door to make sure someone knew where I was going. He, very kindly, insisted on coming along with me, which was definitely a good thing. It made the whole experience more of an adventure and less scary and isolating.

Anyways, we took the bus to the hospital and found our way with some difficulty to the eye center. The nurse there took my name and address and, of all things, my religion - no insurance information though - and told us to wait. There were two people in front of me.

Two and a half hours and lots of bad magazines later (did you know the British tabloids think Christina Aguilera should cover the bruises on her legs?), I finally got to see the doctor. He was very kind. When he gave me some drops, I warned him that I'm really bad about drops, and he said, "Don't worry...I'm good at it." He told me about his visit to Georgetown and how he saw cockroaches there. Thankfully, by that time the pain had died down a bit and my main problem was blurry vision. He diagnosed the problem as a scratched cornea and gave me medication for it.

So the long and short of it is that I have to wear my glasses for at least the next week and put this antibiotic cream in my eyes four times a day...and take Advil for the pain. Fun, fun. But all in all, it turned out okay. And here's the best part. When the doctor was finished, I asked him where I should go to pay for the medication and the exam, and he said, "Oh, you don't have to pay. You can leave a donation if you want, but nothing's required." I couldn't believe it. I'm still not sure exactly how all of that works.

So even though I feel ugly in my glasses and didn't get much done on my sonnets paper and can't see clearly out of my right eye, I have lots to be thankful for - free treatment, kind Brits who helped me figure out what to do, Kevin's kindness in helping me through it, all the other friends and faculty who've been so concerned, and the wonderful cafeteria staff here who put together special dinner plates for us, even though we were an hour and a half late. Plus I have a good story to tell!

Birthday Abroad

People here have asked me if it's strange to celebrate my birthday away from home, but for me, it's almost normal. Many of my birthdays growing up were celebrated at the beach, and since sixteen, I've celebrated birthdays in Hong Kong, Colorado, upstate New York, and now...England.

All in all, it was a very fun day, especially because Heidi and I have the same birthday so we got to share in the fun together. I got up early and boarded a coach bus with Kellie, Kimberly, and Heidi for Stratford-upon-Avon. There, we visited Holy Trinity Church, the sight of Shakespeare's grave, and the house in which Shakespeare was born. Then we went to the Royal Shakespare Theatre to see a performance of Romeo and Juliet, which was an intruiging mix of Shakespeare meets Stomp meets West Side Story with some nice stage and lighting design thrown in.

We got back around 7 and went for a late dinner at 8:30 with a few other friends. Heidi and I were determined to have pizza - not stuffed meat and potatoes like we usually have in the dining hall :) - and we found this fun American-style place that even gave us birthday balloons. The girls had all gone together and gotten Heidi and I gift certificates for pedicures, which was super kind. Afterwards, we stopped at a pub for drinks and then came back and hung out in Kellie's room, talking until 2 a.m. It reminds me of undergrad in the way that I have gotten to know so much about these people in just 2 weeks!

This morning, I went to church again at Holy Trinity, and now I'm off to the University Center to work on my sonnets paper. It's due Thursday, so we're all feeling the pressure to buckle down and get things done.

Thank you all so much for your kind e-mails and e-cards. It meant a lot to be remembered on my birthday!

Shakespeare's Grave

Heidi and I with our birthday balloons

Will's House in Stratford

Tragedy, Comedy, and Theology

Me writing at Christ's College Fellows' Garden yesterday morning
Today marks the start of the second half of my time in Cambridge. After a day off yesterday in between terms, it was back to class today - this time Jane Austen II and Shakespeare's Late Tragicomedies (Cymbeline, Winter's Tale, The Tempest). Thankfully, today was a bit cooler than yesterday, which apparently was the hottest day EVER in Britain's history. I know you're all thinking I'm a whiner to even complain about 90 degrees when you've been hitting 100 and higher in the States, but remember, nothing's air-conditioned here because it's usually reasonably cool...and there are no fans anywhere either. I'm definitely wishing I'd brought more shorts and tank tops!

Anyways, on class days, we have a large group lecture after our morning class, and today's lecture was about Shakespeare's merging of tragedy and comedy in his late plays. It was interesting because the speaker presented Shakespeare's shift from his early strict tragedies to tragicomedy in theological terms, arguing that tragedy could only be written in a Calvinist context whereas tragicomedy represents the influence of Armenian thought on Elizabethans. He explained that tragicomic literature expresses what strict philosophy cannot - the simultaneous existence of free will and predestination, the unexplainable dance between them.

I'm not sure if such a brief summary of an hour-long lecture makes any sense, but I was very much struck by the idea, especially since I've always believed both predestination and free will (or at least the perception of it) to be somehow true and always been moved by the mystery therein. It's intriguing to think of Shakespeare's plays as reflective of his growing understanding of and appreciation for this dance.

Updates and Ponderings

Since my last post, I've had some pretty neat experiences. Last night, Heidi, Kellie, Kimberly, Kevin, and I went to see an outdoor production of Hamlet on the grounds of King's College. The five of us had seen Midsummer Night's Dream together on Friday night, and we'd noticed a bunch of other groups with elaborate picnic spreads. So we decided to give it a go this time, and it was so much fun. As you can see, we brought wine, bread, cheese, salads, fruit, and desserts, all of which were delicious. And the actor who played Hamlet was phenomenal!

Heidi, Kevin, Kellie, Kimberly and our dinner :)

Then, this morning, the same group of us ventured to Christ's College to spend some time in the Fellows' Garden, home of Milton's Mulberry Tree. The garden was still and beautiful, so after roaming around and taking pictures for a bit, we each found a spot to sit and read or write. I spent some time journaling and praying and just enjoying the beauty of the place. It was definitely the coolest spot I've been all day - I know there's been a heat wave in the States, but it's been VERY unseasonably warm here too...upper 80's, which for the Brits is unbearable!

Then, this afternoon, I visited the Round Church, which dates back to 1130 and enjoyed a fantastic exhibit on church history in Cambridge from Rome to today. It explained how the universities of Cambridge spun out of centers of monastic learning and explained how Cambridge students were influential in the Reformation. It also described the tension between science and faith, noting that neither Issac Newton nor the early founders of the famous Cavendish Laboratory considered this to be a problem.

Finally, I wandered back to Magdalene College, which I'd learned since my last visit was home to C.S. Lewis during his years in Cambridge. It's interesting to think as I visit all of these places dear to famous people - Byron's pool, Milton's garden, Lewis' college - about what it is that draws us to places like this, why we go to great lengths to see them. At first glance, it seems like some sort of a pilgrimage, a ground hallowed by the geniuses that have walked there. But the places themselves, though beautiful, are not necessarily any more amazing than places I've seen in Fairfax - secluded, natural, calm, but not particularly awe-inspiring. But perhaps that's part of the appeal - to see that famous people were inspired by places much like our own favorites, that they really are rather human after all.

International Pub Chat

It's hard to believe, but today marks the half-way point of my time in Cambridge. My first two classes finished today, so my Sonnets professor met with our class at a pub this afternoon. My friend Kimberly and I had a great time chatting with a woman from Germany, also a teacher. I learned a lot about the way education in Germany works, including that Germany is currently undergoing the process of removing year 13 from its secondary education system.

Even more interesting though, we got to talk with her about World War II and the Holocaust and how it is taught in German schools. She said that it is presented very much as Germany's fault and that she thinks German people still really struggle with a lot of guilt for it. She believes that it's made Germans as individuals and as a country much more humble and sensitive to prejudice and discrimination.

We also got to chat with Judith, a history scholar from the UK who is now studying literature, about the Gunpowder Plot and its role in British history and perhaps Shakespeare's consciousness. It's so fascinating to me to learn about these aspects of history and culture that are not emphasized in America, to realize that while we're learning about the Revolutionary War and the Civil War, students in other countries are learning about a whole host of other events. It definitely makes me realize how much there is to learn.

Weekend Photos

I thought I'd add a few pictures from the weekend! It's been very relaxing and fun - not at all studious :) But it's back to class tomorrow!

My fellow English nerds at the pub on Friday afternoon:

Heidi, Kelly, me, Kimberly, Tara


Me today at Lord Byron's pool...he apparently liked to swim here when he was studying at Cambridge. I thought it looked pretty gross!


A shot from the pub we were at last night.

Thoughts on Church

This morning, Heidi and I went to a service at Holy Trinity Church, Cambridge. Part of the Church of England, Holy Trinity dates back some 800 years and is beautiful with its high, arched ceilings; white stone walls; and sunlight streaming in through stained glass. Ironically, in this morning's service, the ancient architecture was juxtaposed with two giant Powerpoint screens at the front of the sanctuary and guitars for worship.

I was struck by the contrast between this service and the one we went to mid-week at King's College Chapel. At King's College, the service was highly liturgical; the role of the congregant was simply to listen, to sit and stand and kneel at the appropriate times. This morning though, we participated in the singing and were addressed more informally by the pastor. It makes me wonder what it must have felt like during the Reformation, to be offered for the first time the ability to participate, to have a voice in seeking God.

On one hand, there is something about the elaborate formality of the King's College service that is stirring, the sound of the perfectly harmonized choir ringing above you, seeming to swell and rise to the vaulted ceilings, speaks of awe and wonder, of the majesty of a God before whom we must be still and speechless. And yet, this morning's service, with voices joined in unison, the man beside me singing off key, a baby crying a few pews over, speaks of a God who asks not for perfect order, but for our response, our voices.

Week One Pictures

Since Week One is almost over, I thought it was time for some pictures to give you a feel for where I am...
St. Catherine's - my room is in the center tower

Cool shot of St. Magdalene College

My bedroom

So far, I've had a fun weekend - last night, I went with a few other GMU students to see Much Ado About Nothing in the courtyard of King's College. It was a beautiful night, so it was a lot of fun. Then we stopped at a pub afterwards. Today's been relaxing - sleeping in, wondering about the city a bit (which is crazy with all the tourists), taking a jog along the River Cam. I'm headed out in a few minutes to help one of the GMU girls celebrate her birthday! Should be fun...

Middle School All Over Again

Studying in an international summer program is a strange context. Most of the people here have come on their own, either knowing no one at all or only knowing a few people from their university by face. The feeling of utter friendlessness is heightened by everyone's awareness of being in a different culture, where the structures of life as it is comfortable have been removed.

It's been fascinating to watch myself and others navigate the insecurities that this unique context raises. Some people opt to find that one person to do everything with. Others, and I for the most part fall into this category, ally themselves with a small group that they can float into and out of at will. Still others seem completely independent, either withdrawn into their own worlds or engaging a wide variety of people without needing to be really attached to any of them.

It feels a bit like middle school to me, like everyone's feeling out the social waters, not sure exactly where they, or anyone else for that matter, stands. I realized last night that it's easy for me in this kind of context to become completely self-centered, worrying about not wanting to be alone, trying to make everyone like me. It does not come naturally for me to shift my focus elsewhere - to think about the insecurities of others, to find ways to serve and bless them, to spend time and social energy on others who may not have as much to offer me. The desperation for the approval of others, which is present in my heart at all times, becomes much more pronounced when I'm removed from the security of those I know and trust.

It's realizations like these which I think are an important part of stepping outside one's culture and comfort zone periodically. I become much more aware of the reality of my own heart and its less than desireable motives.

Being Brilliant

The British use the word "brilliant" the way we use the word "cool" or "awesome," but I'm going to use it the American way in this post. We have these lectures every morning, after our first class, by various university professors, and today I listened in awe for an hour to an absolutely brilliant woman discuss the agony and the ecstacy, categorized together as the sublime, as they are represented in tragedy and comedy, ancient to modern. Every sentence that came out of her mouth felt like it could have been a graduate thesis, and yet they all linked together seemlessly and . . . brilliantly. The best part was that she's this petite red-head who looked about 25 and was 4 or 5 months pregnant, very quiet and unassuming.

Being here has made me realize how much I don't know, how much there is to know, how much I'd like to be able to give a brilliant lecture, how much the academic is a world that both fascinates and repels me. I love to think about and understand things, to see connections, to be well-read on a variety of topics, and yet, pursuing that in and of itself feels tiresome to me. As much as I'd like to be able to enthrall an audience with the things I say, to be able to come up with an idea that no one's ever considered before, doing that simply for the sake of doing it feels somehow empty. And so I wonder, what does one really gain by being brilliant? In what ways is brilliance worth pursuing, and in what ways is it ultimately disastisfying? Something I'm pondering here on the other side of the pond :)

Sonnet of the Day

Sonnet LXVIII by Edmund Spenser

Most glorious Lord of life that on this day,
Didst make thy triumph over death and sin:
and having harrowed hell didst bring away,
captivity thence captive us to win.
This joyous day, dear Lord, with joy begin,
and grant that we for whom thou didest die
being with thy dear blood clean washed from sin,
may forever live in felicity.
And that thy love we weighing worthily,
may likewise love thee for the same again:
and for thy sake that all like dear didst buy,
with love may one another entertain.
So let us love, dear love, like as we ought,
love is the lesson which the Lord us taught.

Note: We've been studying Shakespeare's predecessors in my sonnet class, and now that I'm actually awake enough to pay attention, I'm really enjoying it. The Jane Austen class is good too...

Things I've Learned So Far!

1. Keyboards in the UK (or at least Cambridge) do not have a shift key on the right hand side where it's supposed to be. Instead there's a \ - rather annoying.

2. Drinking coffee at dinner is not a good idea - even when you're jet-lagged, it can keep you up until 2 a.m!

3. Playing Solitaire on your I-pod can relieve frustration when you're still awake at 1 a.m.

4. Americans (myself included) are impatient people - the students from GMU have been frustrated that people don't walk up the elevators ("lifts"), that people don't walk fast enough, that dinners (even in the dining hall) are 3-course meals that take up an hour and a half of your time. I kind of like how everything's slower...

5. British university involves lots of lecturing - good lecturing - but hard to follow when jet-lagged...

6. Cooked mushrooms for breakfast aren't that bad...but I'm still not brave enough to try the baked beans and stewed tomatoes.

7. The British are way more energy-conscious than we are. There are little signs everywhere reminding you to turn off the lights when you leave the bathroom, etc.

8. The dining hall at Hogwarts is for real - the professors really do have a special raised table!

More to follow soon...